What the TBHQ?
In this issue: My taste test of gluten-free Cheez-It's, the ingredient switch in Reese's peanut butter cups, and even more protein drinks.
A friend celebrated her birthday on Wednesday, and when I asked how she was celebrating, she sent a photo of a box of donuts next to a slice of quiche. I replied: “You’re speaking my love language!”
Some foods speak a love language that once worked for me. A few that come to mind: Ritz crackers, Cheez-It’s, Circus Animal cookies, Reese’s peanut butter cups. Even without looking up the ingredients I’m pretty sure this list is pure junk food but it’s what I grew up with, and eventually gave up. But because I write and think about food for most of my waking hours I like to investigate what’s new. Even when it might be junk. Today’s deep dive is into Gluten-Free Cheez-It’s.
My niece bought them first and reported back that they could “make her forget Cheez-It’s” entirely. The other Cheez-It’s. The original version. That’s how good they were. Then I got a box. (Okay, someone got it for me.) I left the box open next to my computer while I worked on this newsletter. In no time I ate a dozen or more crackers. They weren’t cheesy enough for me but they were so crispy, flaky, salty perfect that I enjoyed the hell out of them. Then I wised up, folded down the plastic bag and closed the box.
Because my niece had both kinds on hand, I asked her to send me the nutrition facts panels side by side. The difference in the ingredients shocked me. Maybe it will shock you?
The gluten-free flour blend isn’t all terrible but I wouldn’t want to be eating “degerminated yellow corn,” which is finely ground corn kernels with the bran and germ removed to prevent spoilage. It’s lower in fiber and nutrients and “perfect” for baking and longer shelf life. The oil used in these crackers is a mish mash I definitely don’t want in my diet. It includes soybean, palm, canola and/or sunflower with TBHQ for freshness.
TBHQ? This can’t be good. Tert-butylhydroquinone (tBHQ) is a synthetic antioxidant used as a food preservative. It extends shelf life and prevents spoilage by stopping fats and oils from going rancid. It’s approved by the FDA for use in food but this definitely doesn’t sound good. I know not everyone is reaching for a box of gluten-free Cheez-it’s, but this TBHQ stuff is in more items than we think.
A study from the School of Public Health in Iran deemed it to “have side effects on human health through activation of inflammatory routes, generation of reactive species, induction of CYP1A1, activation of caspases, and decreases in GSH/ATP levels, and triggering of the gradual development of cancers.” Now this was at higher levels than one might eat in a day, but what if your diet is 80% UPF? Here’s a few more downsides from Michigan State University’s Center for Research on Ingredient Safety.
The gluten-free formulation also included corn starch (fine) and modified corn starch (um, not fine). You can find modified food starch in all the crinkly-bagged junk foods lining the shelves of our supermarkets and it’s there to increase performance and functionality. (Read: shelf life, binding, structure.)
You’ll also find cheddar cheese, salt, yeast, and paprika. These are fine. But then there’s xantham gum, monoglycerides, and dextrose — a sweetener and shelf-life extender with a high glycemic index, another reason these foods will shoot your blood sugar up. No bueno.
By now maybe you’re wondering what’s in the original Cheez-It’s? The ingredients appear almost farm-to-table in comparison. (Kidding.) Enriched flour, which is enriched because they remove everything good in wheat and then they put back in the nutrients. Vegetable oil, the same terrible stuff in the g-free version; and that TBHQ stuff. The rest is basically fine. So what gives? This is called food science and it probably took Kellenova years to perfect the “recipe” for these crackers. Is anyone looking at these ingredients? Or wondering why no one can say for sure that this stuff isn’t good for us?
I was midway through writing this newsletter when I read Marion Nestle’s post about a food fight over the newly formulated Reese’s peanut butter cups now that Hershey’s owns the brand. What was once milk chocolate is now compound coatings, and what was once peanut butter is now peanut butter style creme. Every Big Food brand is looking for a way to do things cheaper, which is almost never in our best interest. Read the full story about the chocolate-peanut-butter brouhaha.
And, because we can’t always eat what’s good for us, last Friday I made peanut butter cookies for a potluck. The story is too long to share here but that jar of peanut butter, which made me walk to Safeway to buy, and run into a neighbor in the aisles, helped me solve a plumbing problem at my house. Here’s the 4-ingredient recipe, which is the easiest and most delicious cookie I have ever made. It means you have to buy a jar of Skippy creamy peanut butter but sometimes it’s worth it.
I’m just here for the tidbits:
The Every Company launched its precision fermentation animal-free, egg-white protein powder, and you can buy it here. I bet it will work great in pasta. If you use it, drop me a line and let me know.
Because it sold out so fast, Beyond Meat launched four more flavors of its protein drink. I’m still waiting to try it.
Sweeteners made from proteins are one of those food-tech ideas I’m hopeful about. In another nod to the progress being made in precision fermentation, MycoTechnology is launching a sweet protein made from honey truffles.
Where you can find me:
I’ll be in conversation with Nancy Matsumoto who is a wonderfully prolific writer and friend. Her latest book is called Reaping What She Sows: How Women Are Rebuilding Our Broken Food System, which we will talk about at Book Passage in Corte Madera on March 22nd at 1pm.
I’ve got an essay in the latest issue of Edible SF. Go find an issue in print here. Spoiler alert: My essay isn’t about food!
Great post. I think about the fast food and junk food commercials you see on broadcast television during big sporting events. Every product has the same orangey hue, from fried chicken in a big tub to those orangey taco shells with more orangey "cheesy" insides.